Thursday, April 17, 2014

holidays ahead...

... and weather turns to really bad ç%*%&/"+Pè£!£è


Tuesday, April 8, 2014

2nd-last-move... 2times in a day

BOOOOOOOM - ... since 3weeks i was more or less unable to climb the start sequence of "insanity" anymore. i just could not understand what i was doing wrong... i felt strong... was rested... good skin... so i blamed the hot weather... at least i had something to blame.... i was already close to quit, to burn all my pads and climbing shoes... ;) but i had one more thing in mind: trying a new shoe as i really felt i was slipping around on my heel at the start sequence! result: despite 20C i did the sequence 4times and made my way up to the SECOND LAST MOVE TWICE in the same session - climbing einfisch/keinfisch (no kneepad) in between to show beta to some friends... ;)

first go it was super close... i felt fresh till the second before the match-move two moves from the top... second go i felt already tired at the third move but made it again to the second-last move (move nr. 29) - it was quite a fight.... i really "hate" that move as it takes me (too) much power to place the feet and somehow my bodyposition never feels "right". luckily a friend of mine pointed out a possible beta without replacing the feet... that should save just the energy needed to get to the top! sadly that was AFTER my first go... i am a 100%sure i would have made it to the top with the new beta...ififififififififififif...

high on "insanity" - you should not - but you can go down on that move... - even twice a day....  match that hold and move to the lip.. *grrrrrrrr*

as happy as i am about that great progress from not making the 3rd move anymore to climb to move 29 (out of 30)... it also looks like i wasted three weeks of perfect weather and conditions with a too large and old climbing-shoe... sounds like a beginner mistake... and it IS a beginner-mistake... but better to discover my error in equipment choices late then never ... and yep, nice to make it to move 29... but WHY NOT FOR ONCE get a bit luck and make it to move 30... and TOP IT OUT???!!!

so then... the rabbit just got another carrot in front of his hungry mouth... i already wanted to go up to sustenpass but weather up there turns bad so i will back in the game on "insanity" for another session... - two more moves and that nasty mantle... 7A-boulder can't be that much of a problem after climbing that far... does it... ;)

Friday, April 4, 2014

fat cat driving even more crazy

and once again i was not able to repeat that start-sequence of "insanity". i just don't get it. last week i was able to do it on a second day on... but now despite two restdays and 5hrs!!!! of going "a muerte" i just could not do it (again). it was super close on every of the 30+tries... but very often i lost the crimp, just slipped off.... or then my heel slipped off. my shoe is totally worn down... so i will try a new one... will this be the key???!!! 

on the other hand i had a breakthrough at the "big cat" - i did all the moves from the standstart - super powerful and super cool... looks like i really got stronger over years... like that... ;) "the use your dilusion-project" was a project i brushed and tried a few times to no success over the years. i always suggested it to others to try as i was close to all the moves and it was very fun to climb on it - even if all the moves are at my maximum spam. but none really tried... until james webb made the fa of "big cat, 8B+" a few days ago. congratulations - very well done!!!

 the "techy heel hook" - catch what you get and do "something" - even if you're too short (weak) to get to the "jug" up right...


about perception of difficulty.... what james describes on his instagramm as "... leads you into a techy heel hook move..." is actually a brutal far lock/dynamic heel-compression-move at its finest. it's at the limit of my reach, i get the hold but not where i would like it to have - so i have to do some tricky stuff with some tiny, skin eating intermediate holds to solve that sequence.. but it worked ;)




then he goes: "...followed by some more mellow terrain".  this "mellow terrain" actually are some  VERY physical body tension moves, crazy double toe hooks... and again on my full span on which my full body started to shake and i felt like my body would break in two pieces... i had to press so hard to stay on.... and even on the little traverse into delusion i have to do some crazy climbing because i cant keep a very good toe hook (again).. mellow terrain... but may i was just too tired after the 5hrs session on "insanity"... can't wait to get back - this moves are soooo god - and it looks like i finally am strong enough to really go for it :)


in the "mellow terrain"... - where i had to press so hard that my body nearly broke in two pieces... ;)

the first move.... well lets just ignore that one for the moment... i don't want to start again about just being 3cm too short... seems to be the thing for me down there... just this little bit too short... but the  standstart is quite cool for itself..., but hey, may it's also possible to start from a sit.... ;)

Monday, March 31, 2014

driving crazy

...well after 3 rest days i was feeling strong with good skin, may it was a bit warm (17C), but i felt good and i went a muerte - for 3hrs i was going crazy at that start sequence of "insanity" -  but was again NOT able to link it - WTF??????!!!!!

looking back to the last two weeks an interesting fact is that if it was less then 15C i was able to do it, if it was warmer it just did not work. so i needed a "plus-15C-beta".....  i have some 10different ways i can grab almost static to the jug... if i go a bit dynamic i swing out - that last 2cm are just too much for me...

...so i went back to re-check this start moves again (for the 1001time...) and i really managed to find a very hard but more "in control" way to do it - but at the end of the day i was too tired to link it all together...

finally found a "plus-15C-beta" for me???!!!
next day i was totally trashed, bad skin, super tired and it was very warm. i spotted my girlfriend and some friends. normally i don't climb (hard) stuff and for sure not the same thing as the day before on a second day. but i was curious if my new start beta would work... at 6pm it still was 18C - but together with my girlfriend i went back to the 101sector. 

second try i made it trough the start.... and fell off shortly after due to total fatigue.... hahahahah.... was this now just luck... or is this my new beta????????  interesting also that despite higher temps also the sloperrailpart felt way better then the day before.... - and angie pointed me to a way more secure beta at the end - all thats seems just to god to be true... i will make the "reality check" in a few days - stay tuned - fat cat is NOT giving in... ;)




Thursday, March 27, 2014

a strange night in ticino

despite three rest days i felt pretty tired and could not really feel "power" on the holds... i was not even able to do my regular warmup ("einfisch" to the lip) and the sequences of insanity did feel (way too) hard as well. looks like workdays somehow don't equal full rest days to me. even if i just have a "desk job" as a teacher it's may just too much stress... not enough sleep... but i am a pussy (as we discovered last time) so i stop whining here... -  but did i already mention that it was way more humid then the days before... ;)

exactly the position where i suffered from my total power-break-down and slipped from the right foothold... - one move from the resting-point...

but despite feeling like crap the colder temps and the the micro-beta i remembered for the start sequence finally worked nicely together. bouldering can be quite strange sometimes...

as i suspected i really did move my body in a wrong direction, i was too high and i did not place my hips close enough so i was not able to build up enough tension for my (non existing) toe hook to stay. it still took me some six tries to stick the start which is way too much and that already made me bit tired but i (hope) i have dialed that move again and will we able to repeat it much faster next session.

well after finally making my way trough that start again i suddenly found myself up at the sloperband of delusion and just one move away from the "resting point". but then i suffered from one second to another from a total power-break-down... i lost tension and lost a foothold... but that's ok, i needed just too many tries and power on the start before.

setting up for the big move in the "use-your-delusion-project"
its even steeper then it seems on the pic and the heel hook is just compression - if you loose tension then....
you go down... - but given the fact that i already felt super tired i should def. try again once i am fresh...

before climbing "insanity" to the lip from the third move again for "endurance-training" i went on to try the moves of the super powerful "use-your-delusion-project" - an old project i brushed some years ago (may somebody (dave?) already was on it 10years ago?!) which starts on the left of insanity and shares the same exit. it has BIG body tension moves and some crucial hook's which need to stay - so it will help to be BIG on this one (again). there was some chalck and ticks on it - so looks like someone had tried it recently... james? as he obviously did not send this one in a session it must be 8C or harder.... ;)

i tried it a few times in the years back, came close to the moves but never really did them. i was close on the moves again this time... and given the fact that i felt already super tired after my total power breakdown in insanity i may should try once when i still feel fresh... VENGA :)

Sunday, March 23, 2014

mind games (again)...

drama is in full flow again...what else could it be... ;)

i resisted the temptation to hike up to sustenpass as it was just too dangerous and ticino had great weather as well. so off i was to chironico...

second session and already twice up at the sloperband of the delusion-part... just a matter of one or two more days... hahahah.... ;)

it all started so good! on my second session this season on "insanity of grandeur" i made it already up to the big sloper of the "delusion"-part... (pic above) but did let go as i was too scared to go on as i never did the final mantel before... - YES i am a real pussy - but after the last year and two really serious injuries and close to 12months of rehabilitation i just did not wanted to take any chances!  i got the rope - and guess what - i did flash the topout.. HAHAHAHA :) next try i made it again up to the big sloperrail but slipped off a hold. so that was a great start and i was very happy that my hamstrings worked very well. they are still sore for a day or two after the session, but it's perfect training for them to get back to full power again.

as i usually need four to five days to adapt and normally one day after another i get stronger on a project i was very positive for the next few days! "normally"...  but this time it was not "normally".... the heat arrived (up to 22C... and no cold nights anymore...), i felt tired from work... and it was too dry (NO JOKE!!!)... and at least a dozen more very good excuses why i just sucked ;)

then suddenly not being able to climb the start sequence anymore...

Suddenly i was not able to make that super hard start-sequence anymore. every day it got worser instead of better. but i kind of "knew" that scenario. it was the same as two years before... as it was getting warmer i suddenly was not able to do this sequence anymore.

third day i was there at 8am in the morning but it was already 13C (warm!!!). crazy march weather in ticino. it just peeled my skin of my tips....  then after 3hrs - why after 3hrs...... why not earlier....?????!!!!! i made the move but then i slipped off a foothold????? and then again my heel slipped... and some days later i slipped again off a foothold... every time things got worser.... till i just did not do that start at all anymore. if i just could keep that toe hook for that start. 5cm more reach and i would do that sequence every time... - even for warm up (and would it downgrade to "soft" 7B of course.. ;) - like that crazy strong american mutant named Jimmy X who did that mind-blowing stunt of climbing "insanity" (and some more 8B+/C's) in ONE SESSION - may i should get surgery to get that 5cm more reach and climb everything in a day?! but i am quite sure this would end up with me needing specific surgery for every boulder problem i try... - so may i just get my ass off the couch and get stronger... transform the weak pussy into a mutant... i will do that just after that two pieces of chocolate-doublecream-cake, the shiatsu massage and the pedicure... - i promise... ;)

then get the start for once but slipping off the biggest footholds...

to make things even better i managed to ripped off a part of the intermediate hold from the startsequnce... but its still there, its still possible nothing changed too much... hopefully it stays.... at least the cold is on its way back...  WINTER IS COMING - hopefully the white walkers will hold bit back... ;) to be continued.... 

and finally ripping off a part of that super good intermediate hold at the start... but it's still there, did not change anything... still HARD  ;)

Sunday, March 9, 2014

VERY tempting


PERFECT conditions up at sustenpass - but the approach is still too dangerous (very high avalanche risk at the moment!). as the weather in the south finally is great and stable i was in ticino not only for powder and freeriding but for some climbing again as well. i have something to finish up in ticino, had two great sessions and i was already getting close yesterday - so maybe i can make it up to sustenpass next weekend.... - but when i am getting "close" this usually means DRAMA will go on for another few weeks/months/years... - you know i can climb nearly everything up to the last move... will see how it works out this time.... - wish me some luck... ;) 


Monday, February 10, 2014

Desert or Snow...

sunny, 20C, windy, dry, nice boulders, very nice people - it's great in the desert... and as much as i would like to spend much more time here... 



i really can't wait to be back home... up to 3.8m!!! of snow in the south of swizzy - the winter of a century - something you just can't miss :)


Monday, February 3, 2014

Thursday, January 16, 2014

F*CK YEAH

thats WHY i climb - it can't get much better!!! imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top.
- "SANTOKU", TICINO - never ever seen something like that!!! never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! its pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. for a compression-fanatic like myself its just the holy grail ;) thanx so much to fabian and andi for putting up that thing!  

first day i had a nice session with fabi and andi. it was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. after getting a cold and some snow went down in ticino i was back two weeks later. i still could not believe how good the climbing was. and as i like(d) it so much i just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;)

entering the crux of "santoku" - what a LINE!!! pic by angelawagner.ch
trust your heels! one of the best sequences EVER -  thanx a lot for the great pic to angelawagner.ch
keep the tension - you should not fall anymore after you get that hold left hand... - i fell twice ;)
pic by angelawagner.ch

first two tries of that day i fell off the 5a-top-out (once i dabed, once too cold). after that i was soooooooo tired i just wanted to go home but prisca and nico convinced my to just "give it another go".... (BIG THANKS TO THEM!!!). so i chalked up again and nearly went down on the very first (easy) move. i was pretty tired but somehow managed to not fall off on the next few harder moves. getting into the second part i went totally "a muerte" and to my biggest surprise i made it all the way up on top of that beauty.

laying on top (because i was totally exhausted) i just could not believe what had happened and could not stop laughing about myself... always drama... but this time i sent - to say it in the words of my fellow italian climber/blogger totolore: F*CK YEAH... ;)