Monday, June 24, 2013

getting in shape - "ikarus, 8B+" reclimbed...

... quo vadis? well i am not a 100% sure yet, but when i pay attention and when i avoid certain "leg-moves" i have no problems with my meniscus at all... so i figured out some new beta and went for a little climb... ;) despite i have to climb a lot of moves different and way harder (thanks to my recently torn meniscus & my hamstrings not fully back yet) i just managed to reclimb the "ikarus, 8B+"-part of my highlander-project again... but it's a bit a strange thing when pulling at your limit and always checking for how your knee responds... but it looks like my beta is solid now and i don't have to worry (too much).

"ikarus, 8B+" (ends at the "traumland-finishing-hold" one move to the right). in the pic i am already looking into the "highlander-crux"...
pic by

fred (yes THE fred) and a friend of him have been up there at sustenpass as well and they really pushed me trough the first crux (thanks for that bit of extra-engery ;) - and i just had a little too much swing going into the second crux - so just two more hard moves to go... :) on the one hand it's nice to climb so far into the project again, but on the other hand; i must have climbed that 8B+ part over 50times over the last years... but never was able to do that last two hard moves... and it did not matter if i was totally tired or feeling quite good - something went wrong ever time...  but you never know when this little window opens... and i'd better be there and ready if it does... ;)

and to not get too exited i did not manage to get past "trauland-crux" just once on the weekend. i can climb it from two hard moves in like 3times a day... with my new beta, it really looks i need to get even stronger... power can really help to solve such problems... ;)

later local powerhouse ronny (fresh from a very nice and haaaard FA in murgtal) joined in at the traumland-boulder as well and we figured out a very nice and powerful "low-start" (like a "depart bas" in font) to the "kein schneehäschen, 8B/+". just three more moves - but VERY powerful. now you feel already pretty tired getting into the original start - GREAT ;) can't wait to get back (and check if my knee does cooperate with the other moves) ....

getting into the crux-sequence of "kein schneehasi, 8B/+" - will be WAY harder from the new start - i like... ;)


  1. Gut zu hören! Du bist zu stark geworden fur dein körper!!! Auch der Körper wird badl mitkommen, bin ich mir sicher. Viel gluck!
    Bin eigentlicht gespannt wie jetzt alle "deine" linien auf den Traumland bock gehen. Hast du da vieleicht was gezeichnet?

  2. Mammamia!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!