Monday, December 16, 2013


as i checked the weather forecast the other day i nearly went crazy: very unusual warm air was filling  into the higher mountains and so sustenpass got some 6+C and that over night as well (very important, so the rock does not cool down too much). to top that humidity was as low as you normally never see it in swizzy. despite still feeling shitty and weak after two weeks with an influenza-virus, i had no real choice - off i was to sustenpass again ;) because the road was closed and some serious snow there was a bit of logistics to be handled.... ;)

temps and humidity at sustenpass - totally crazy for the season - especially the warm nights what means the rock does not get too cold - what means you don't get cold fingers too fast... - what means you may have a chance... so go and TAKE IT!!!

below and above the fog - i LOVE the mountains :)

the hike will start soon - not your usual bouldering equipment... ;)

good thing there are "split boards" - saves A LOT of time on the way back and you can have some fun after climbing as well... ;)

getting ready on the "hasi-project" - the scenery and grip were just incredible...

just a shame my power was gone after nearly two weeks of "influenza-down-time" :( 
at least i managed to reclimb the sequences. at first i even wasn't able to do one single move...

so i went for some "not-so-max-moves" - but no chance on the "highlander" as well.... but at least i tried... you never know... you really have to go for it!!! and even if i punted around like a beginner - it was a great day. it was warm, perfect friction, great climbing, very quiet and just sooooo beautiful, can't get much better!!!

back at the car after the ride down... beautiful isn't it?! going home...???

well "another home" ;)  as it's just a 45min ride - i went to chironico for a little endurance-night-session - working hard to get back in shape!!! 

Thursday, December 5, 2013

One Night in Chironico

After I was snowed out from Sustenpass some nice "Fön-Wind" was forecasted for Chironico. I have not been climbing in Chironico for over a year so I was very excited to touch this nice gneiss again. After a full day of work I was back in Chironico at for the first time after my injury - the first time after over one year. It was a pity it was already dark (7pm) but friction felt great. 

"bouldering is so basic you know, you need nearly no equipment at all... ";)
I wanted to have a lock at "Insanity of Grandeur, 8C" on which I was very close as it still was a project. I warmed up on the "Electric-Ant" boulder. There is a nice little line on the right side of it which I did the FA two years ago. Back then on my FA of "A cat on a hot thin roof" I started sitting but quite stretched out. So I was wondering if it may would be possible to make a not so stretched, more logic low start on the obvious lowest hold.

working the crux moves... on and off.. ;)
I first just wanted to try a bit but then i got sucked in and after fumbling and falling around for 2hrs I finally found a method that worked. As i felt already tired I rested quite a bit, had some food and set off for one last go. I went down on the intro move - chalked up and somehow managed to not mess up the start moves anymore.... but while entering the "easy"-6C-topout I got cold fingers and got tired till I could not move anymore. Desperately I tried to shake, to get some blood back into my tips. I knew I was too tried to make it again trough the hard starting moves. I just thought: "Don't f**k it up again...". With no pad on the exit and nearly falling off on every move I screamed and fighted myself up to a resting jut - did not let go on the topout and put it DOWN. For a very short period it was getting pretty lout in the dark woods of Chironico:) My little consolation prize for this fall: The First Ascent of "A cat on a hot thin roof (low), 8B" - "soft, uhhhh i am sooooooo strong" for sure - as it's "en vogue" these days... ;)

"cat on a hot thin roof" - such a good line, really good moves - 
Sticking the BIG move
entering the "easy" 6C copout... could not feel anything anymore... super tired as well
good thing you can't hear me... ;)

Then I went down to the "Fish-Boulder" and quickly refigured out my beta for "Insanity of grandeur" - linked the sequences - what a good night in the woods this was... ;)

"insanity of grandeur": what a LINE, RADest moves, one of the BEST in ticino for sure

After that very good session I was thinking that I may could have had a chance on that one before winter would hit ticino. But you know it already:  Snow arrived....

...and with a classroom full of kids with fever (They are so motivated (afraid of getting minus-lessons) they are at school even if they are ill - that's what happens when people don't think straight when messing with incentives %&*ç+"). It was a matter of time till "it" would get me as well and "it" got me well!!! So I will need a few days to be back on track but I am sure we will see the second ascent of "Insanity of Grandeur" very soon - "somebody" else is getting really close...