Thursday, January 16, 2014


thats WHY i climb - it can't get much better!!! imagine a massive 12m long 80degrees overhanging granite-prow, heel/toe hooks, funky/tricky, powerful compressions-moves all the way to the top.
- "SANTOKU", TICINO - never ever seen something like that!!! never ever had climbed so many good moves in a row!!! its pure perfection from the sitdownstart to the top. for a compression-fanatic like myself its just the holy grail ;) thanx so much to fabian and andi for putting up that thing!  

first day i had a nice session with fabi and andi. it was great to get all the tricky beta for once instead of spending hours/days by my own looking for a good solution. after getting a cold and some snow went down in ticino i was back two weeks later. i still could not believe how good the climbing was. and as i like(d) it so much i just had to "climb" it three times in a row ;)

entering the crux of "santoku" - what a LINE!!! pic by
trust your heels! one of the best sequences EVER -  thanx a lot for the great pic to
keep the tension - you should not fall anymore after you get that hold left hand... - i fell twice ;)
pic by

first two tries of that day i fell off the 5a-top-out (once i dabed, once too cold). after that i was soooooooo tired i just wanted to go home but prisca and nico convinced my to just "give it another go".... (BIG THANKS TO THEM!!!). so i chalked up again and nearly went down on the very first (easy) move. i was pretty tired but somehow managed to not fall off on the next few harder moves. getting into the second part i went totally "a muerte" and to my biggest surprise i made it all the way up on top of that beauty.

laying on top (because i was totally exhausted) i just could not believe what had happened and could not stop laughing about myself... always drama... but this time i sent - to say it in the words of my fellow italian climber/blogger totolore: F*CK YEAH... ;)


  1. Dude! That's such a proud send!! So happy for you!!! BTW, we have a baby now.

  2. thanx spy! and congratulations to you - proud dad for sure :)

  3. stark martin, freut mich total für dich :-) starke leistung du BUG-BEAST ..
    Grüßli aus München

  4. Grande Martin!!!
    And congratulations, what a beautiful problem!!! Crushing hard as usual!!!

  5. wow, respect, good start of the year! btw, happy new year to angie and you! hopefully we will make it to ticino soon, i can't stand the gym-training much longer ;-)

  6. thanx for all the comments!
    @indigo: happy new year for you and your family as well! and don't forget: training makes you strong! don't come too early to ticino... it's all snowy soaking wet at the moment... try hueco instead.. ;)