and once again i was not able to repeat that start-sequence of "insanity". i just don't get it. last week i was able to do it on a second day on... but now despite two restdays and 5hrs!!!! of going "a muerte" i just could not do it (again). it was super close on every of the 30+tries... but very often i lost the crimp, just slipped off.... or then my heel slipped off. my shoe is totally worn down... so i will try a new one... will this be the key???!!!
on the other hand i had a breakthrough at the "big cat" - i did all the moves from the standstart - super powerful and super cool... looks like i really got stronger over years... like that... ;) "the use your dilusion-project" was a project i brushed and tried a few times to no success over the years. i always suggested it to others to try as i was close to all the moves and it was very fun to climb on it - even if all the moves are at my maximum spam. but none really tried... until james webb made the fa of "big cat, 8B+" a few days ago. congratulations - very well done!!!
|the "techy heel hook" - catch what you get and do "something" - even if you're too short (weak) to get to the "jug" up right...|
about perception of difficulty.... what james describes on his instagramm as "... leads you into a techy heel hook move..." is actually a brutal far lock/dynamic heel-compression-move at its finest. it's at the limit of my reach, i get the hold but not where i would like it to have - so i have to do some tricky stuff with some tiny, skin eating intermediate holds to solve that sequence.. but it worked ;)
then he goes: "...followed by some more mellow terrain". this "mellow terrain" actually are some VERY physical body tension moves, crazy double toe hooks... and again on my full span on which my full body started to shake and i felt like my body would break in two pieces... i had to press so hard to stay on.... and even on the little traverse into delusion i have to do some crazy climbing because i cant keep a very good toe hook (again).. mellow terrain... but may i was just too tired after the 5hrs session on "insanity"... can't wait to get back - this moves are soooo god - and it looks like i finally am strong enough to really go for it :)
|in the "mellow terrain"... - where i had to press so hard that my body nearly broke in two pieces... ;)|