Tuesday, January 13, 2015

"+*ç%*/*"*ç%"/ - just not strong enough!!!


start-sequence of "insanity of grandeur" and "der mit dem fels tanzt"... "easy" when you are really tall... nails the shorter you  get... 

...for over two and a half months i was trying to take advantage of a very unusually warm and dry "winter-season" in chironico... but still it was too cold for me for this 30+ moves.... i was constantly freezing off the last moves of "insanity of grandeur", it was just too cold, too wet, too dry, i did have too much stress on work, not enough sleep, too much sleep, bad luck with slipping off footholds and jugs while near perfect conditions... i felt really strong over this time, could climb twice a day pretty solid into the last two moves just to come back two days later and not beeing able to climb through the start anymore. i could just not believe something went wrong all the time...!!!

...over the last two weeks i could feel like my form went slightly down... i missed the "snap", felt tired, despite two full rest days i felt not really recovered anymore... , i could feel my elbows, i could feel a pulley in the index-finger... but i kept pushing... i felt so close... so i was just "waiting" for THE PERFECT DAY.... or winter to close the season.


...and then THE DAY was here; foen-wind... 15C... and also (very important) during the night warm as well, so the stone did not cool down too much... some friends joined in, lots of pads, spotters, good vibes and lots of encouragement...

... so i sett off and managed to get through the start-part, felt still strong at the resting point on the big sloper-band, had cold fingers but could still feel the holds... (very good!!!)


after 20moves... "rest-point one". i still felt strong (a must if you want to have a chance for the lip) and could still feel my fingertips... (very important for me as well) - not so convenient as it may looks like... needs a lot of body tension as its pretty steep and sloppy...


then two moves from the lip i could feel how my fingers suddenly started to open the grip - i just barley made it to the lip... but i made it.


left hand fingers on the way to open... super close.... but i made it to the lip...  good thing there is no sound to this pic.... ;)



rest point number two. even if it looks like a very good rest... its not so convenient as well - steep and sloppy - especially after 30 more or less hard moves...



...three weeks ago i already was hanging up there, back then i felt way stronger but had so cold i just numbed out while shaking out and desperately trying to get any sensation back into my fingertips. this time it was better! i still got some sensation, i could feel the holds... but i was super tired... i got some chalk and went for the mantle... when suddenly my forearms started to cramp and in pure disbelief i could feel and see my fingers opening their grip... and i instead of a glorious top-out i was sitting on the pads...

... so today it was very simple: no more excuses anymore... i was just not strong enough!!!

one second after i went for the mantle... my forearms started to cramp and my fingers opened the grip... what sent me down to the pads...






... looking at the weather forecast i may get one last chance before it will be too cold for the next two months.... i am so tired... but i will definitely go for it... you think you have no chance? go and take it ;)

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